HondaCB650

Got the pan off and I can turn the starter clutch by hand but it feels really tight. Not good. It should spin free in one direction, only slowed down a bit by the sprockets. Which means there should be a bit of very free play before the starter transmission sprocket teeth really engage. If there is...

Welcome here! :D In fact I never heard of that issue. Remove the starter and have a look into the hole in the crankcase. There should be teeth of a sprocket visible. Usually you can turn the sprocket with a screwdriver to one direction freely, but not to the opposite direction. The mechanical option...

I remember I just had an additional cable lag mounted at the battery side of my starter solenoid. It was "somehow" :roll: accessible with alligator clips after removal of the side cover. This cable lag was strong enough to start the engine there, too, because in my case this was the reason...

Thanks for this nice report.
Well, and this:

michael_650 wrote: Open the windows, turn on the fans. This will stink. Not rancid, terrible, but my lovely bride was not happy...

should not be a problem any longer: https://simplegreen.com/products/all-pu ... -lavender/

Right. The stator itself only needs the three yellow wires for operation. Black and white are to connect the regulator to the rotor brushes. These five cables share the same plug to the regulator, so probably that's why b&w they are there, too. I guess from this and the pictures you could still ...

juntjoo wrote:Any ideas before I take it apart again?

Pull the hose from the petcock, put on another hose there, then release some fuel into a jar. This way you get an idea how much fuel could go into your carbs.

Have a look at the right side of this picture (and better ignore everything on the left :lol: ) The free hose end directly plugged to the (here missing) petcock. This hose even made an upwards loop so the car fuel filter fitted in here. Worked fine and so should yours. The function of the "evil...

Thank you guys for finding really nice words for me, sounds a bit like an obituary. Fortunately too early but thanks anyway. :D So I just like to say that I am all right and there is no reason to worry. I am completely off the motorcycle stuff since that crash and I do not look in here frequently an...

Heat usually is a good idea but be careful there. Especially if there should be traces of "ground contact" at the bottom.
Possibly worth to consider if you really need to have it out.

Yes, tricky issue.
Because everything looks fine as soon as you remove the cover to check out.
Good you found it before you tore everything apart.

It runs and idles very quietly though it takes maybe 30 seconds and a rev or two for cylinder 1 to start firing and heat up noted by a slight backfire pop on cylinder one as the throttle is letting off. It also smokes less now. 30s until it runs at all four is all right. Do not worry. The only prob...

Here is a question I have: If the brown wire associated with the tail light when the bike is running has power coming out of the ignition switch but a break at some later point, could I just splice that wire with the other brown wire? From my understanding of the the US model tail light circuit the...

The brown cables are the power supply for the tail light. And e.g. for German bikes there is also a small 3Watts bulb in the headlight for the front parking light. This might explain no second cable comes out from your harness (US model assumed). Here are some hints how to get into the ignition swit...

You are right, I mixed that up.
It has been three years now that my CB is gone and obviously I start to forget some things with time.
Or in other words: I'm getting old!

I think you should get it out with a 12mm Allen key. You may make a tiny steel plate to shim a possible gap so you get it out safe without damage. It should come out easily, it is just a plug with an O-ring. At least I don't remember trouble there. I won't be surprised if it already would come out w...