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Re: Cheap Replacement Regulator

Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 12:07 pm
by Pinhead
I'm updating this post because I have decided to use a Dodge regulator instead of the Ford due to the superfluous wiring in the Ford regulator.

See the original post.

EDIT 5/30/13 - See updated post.

Re: Cheap Replacement Regulator

Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 1:14 pm
by kstylian
Nice upgrade. Part number for the Dodge regulator?

Re: Cheap Replacement Regulator

Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 1:32 pm
by Pinhead
kstylian wrote:Nice upgrade. Part number for the Dodge regulator?

MasterPro 2VR1
BWD Select R296
ACDelco C603Z
Guaranteed Parts VR295
MPE VR38SB ... 0164708391
ECH VR38 ... 0163742281

Re: Cheap Replacement Regulator

Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 4:54 pm
by cb650
Cool as I have a few old dodges around I have several extras. :lol:

Re: Cheap Replacement Regulator

Posted: Thu May 16, 2013 10:31 am
by Pinhead
After some more testing this regulator seems to be working very well.

The only possible problem I see is that the regulator will draw 10ma when the bike is off. This may not be a problem if the bike is ridden daily or even weekly and/or trickle charged, though. The Ford regulator didn't draw any "rest" current.

A possible solution would be to switch off both incoming power wires with the key, though that possibly presents a "reference" problem; any voltage drop through the wiring harness would show up as an increased charging voltage. This regulator tries to maintain a steady 14.4v charge which means as little as a 0.5v drop would raise the charging voltage to battery-boiling levels.

Another solution would be feeding the reference through a relay. This would solve the reference problem but add in complexity (and adds failure points).

OTOH, this may not be a "problem" at all, at only 10ma. We'll see how my bike acts today after sitting for 8 hours.

Re: Cheap Replacement Regulator

Posted: Fri May 17, 2013 10:33 am
by Pinhead
This regulator seems to be working quite well. The bike didn't have any trouble starting yesterday when I left work, after sitting for ~8 hours. I didn't drive it today so we'll see how well it fares after sitting for ~20 hours. I'm still not 100% sure if I should worry about 10ma or not...

Re: Cheap Replacement Regulator

Posted: Sun May 19, 2013 9:30 am
by SchoolDaGeek
I know our less than 1/4 sized batteries do not compare to the CCA of a car battery, but here is a good video about parasitic drains in general, and for a car battery 10ma is negligible.

If you had a security system, with a blinking LED light and an internal clock memory in your car, that would be about right, just enough power to tell the vehicle it is still alive.

Re: Cheap Replacement Regulator

Posted: Thu May 30, 2013 11:29 am
by Pinhead
I let the bike set for about a week due to unsafely bald tires :oops: and when I went to start the bike yesterday the battery was completely drained.

Here is the upgraded diagram using the Dodge regulator in conjunction with a SPST relay.

Re: Cheap Replacement Regulator

Posted: Fri May 31, 2013 2:02 am
by Volker_P
I had similar experiences with an electro-mechanical clock for a car in a scooter.
Quite low power consumption but still enough to drain a small battery.

Re: Cheap Replacement Regulator

Posted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 8:34 pm
by SchoolDaGeek
I am not discouraging people that want to upgrade their rectifier portion of the circuit, but I have come up with a theory that needs tested with a R/R that overcharges. I no longer own any CB650 so I cannot contribute other than theory.

On a field rotor bike that is OVERCHARGING it may be possible to avoid alot of the rewiring that is necessary if a full conversion is made. The original R/R can be left in place, and the Dodge VR295 be put somewhere nearby where it can "fix" the overcharging R/R.

For undercharging R/R's it is usually the Rotor.

Here is the diagram and theory:


Re: Cheap Replacement Regulator

Posted: Sun May 25, 2014 8:51 pm
by ScottBowl
Hello everyone,

I have been trying to make this swap using The dodge voltage regulator and two of the 4-prong standard bridge rectifiers.

The schematics I have to go by are either

A) the old diagram with two rectifiers and ford voltage regulator

B) the new diagram with dodge voltage regulator and one 3-phase rectifier

I was under the impression that the 3-phase rectifier was interchangable with 2 of the standard rectifiers, but I'm having a really hard time understanding what to connect where...

Could anyone please help me?

I may end up just ordering a 3-phase rectifier but it probably won't make it here for a couple weeks, and I don't think I can return the rectifiers I've bought already.


Re: Cheap Replacement Regulator

Posted: Sun Sep 25, 2016 10:46 am
by tario
Without seeing a wiring diagram of the rectifiers it's hard to be sure but... you should be able to hook up the regulator to both of the units. So there is a positive and a negative on each, hook them up to the proper places on the regulator. Your units then have 4 inputs for the stator, use 3 of them.

Rectifiers just take ac and turn it into dc. They use diodes to funnel any positive ac voltage to the positive output and any negative ac to the negative output. As long as you insulate any loose unused inputs they will funnel correctly.

edit; hmm, thought the last post was today... wrong month and year... attention to detail on sundays isn't going great...